Network cable tester & broken cable?

[Technique]

On the topic of the punch down tool possibly being at fault....

 

Personally i can't see it - it's punching the things down. Yes it's around 6 years old but it's barely been used. I've only done a few runs. Punched down 6 or so terminals before the 10 here.

But out of curiosity what's the difference between these punch down tools:

£1.33: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sonline-Punch-Down-Telephone-Insertion-Kroning-Tool/dp/B00X9HAPLA
£15.99: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/impact-punch-down-tool-n41hf

Just a little bit of a difference :-/ Even though they look the same

[BinaryData]

It could just be a bad plate. I'd just buy a new one. I don't know what your financial situation is; but spending $30 on a punch down isn't that bad. It's a one time fee, and who knows, maybe someone you know will need it. I'm constantly being asked if I have tools. I've started buying things like HDMI to DVI cables, Console adapters, etc.. But on one hand, if a $5 punchdown does the job, I'd probably buy it too.

 

Do you have a diagram to follow for punching it down, I can't remember, and I don't feel like reading it all again, lol.

[Technique]

No no - my question is what's the difference?

Those punch down tools look identical, but there's a huge price difference.

To me it seems like going in to one store to buy Smirnoff Vodka at 1ltr for £15 or going in to a store down the street to buy the exact same bottle for £400.

 

I'm curious as to the price difference when the tool appears to be the exact same thing. I know it depends what the company can buy it in for & the % profit they wish to make, but such a difference?

 

 

And the colouring diagram is on the rear of the faceplate - tells me what colour wire to punch in to which terminal. They match on both faceplates & i followed the B guide.

[BinaryData]

1 minute ago, Technique said:

No no - my question is what's the difference?

Those punch down tools look identical, but there's a huge price difference.

To me it seems like going in to one store to buy Smirnoff Vodka at 1ltr for £15 or going in to a store down the street to buy the exact same bottle for £400.

 

I'm curious as to the price difference when the tool appears to be the exact same thing. I know it depends what the company can buy it in for & the % profit they wish to make, but such a difference?

 

 

And the colouring diagram is on the rear of the faceplate - tells me what colour wire to punch in to which terminal. They match on both faceplates & i followed the B guide.

Whats the difference you ask? Maybe the quality of the product? The $5 one could be plastic and break after 15 punches, while the $30 one is made with metal and doesn't break. When it comes to networking, I buy the gear that I've heard names of.

 

Buy another Faceplate from this company you bought from, and buy another slightly more expensive. Punch one, if it doesn't work, try the other one.

[Technique]

Yeah i hate waiting but there's nowhere locally that sells faceplates so i'll have to order one online & then sit & wait.

 

Is there such a brand name of faceplate that is known to be good or just so long as it says cat6 faceplate i should go ahead & buy it & it doesn't matter about the brand?

 

EDIT:

 

I found the exact (kind of) cabling i used. This says grey & mine was white but it was from this exact website & the description is the exact same.

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/products/2079/category_6_shielded_grey_ftp_pvc_cable/

 

EDIT x2:

 

Regards buying in a new faceplate (or 2 just to be sure) where would you buy from?

Scan @ £1.58/unit http://www.scan.co.uk/products/scan-single-gang-single-port-cat-6-faceplate-1-x-module-plus-blanks-included which is where the existing ones are from
Cable Monkey @ £5.70/unit http://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat6-modules-outlets/71-cat6-utp-rj45-modules-with-faceplate.html#/noofoutlets-1outlet

The end result is £8.65 vs £14.94 for what is essentially the same thing. Question is whether one is better or not. Kinda like buying branded ibuprofen instead of supermarket ibuprofen, just because the big name comes in a shiny wrapper & costs more so you 'think' it's 'better'.

Edited December 26, 2015 by Technique

[Technique]

I've spent time reading articles on this, just trying to gain knowledge.

 

I read that with cat6 the pairs should remain twisted for as long as possible & only the very ends to be untwisted & punched down/terminated.

 

I didn't do this because it took up a stack of space in the jack & made it very awkward for punching down as I felt there was no room, so i untwisted them pretty much all the way.

 

Just a thought - this isn't likely to cause the problem is it?

 

 

I know i know - it's been said to buy a new faceplate & i have put some on order, i just need to wait on delivery - so i AM listening to you. I thought in the meantime i'd ask about this that i've just read.

[The_Decryptor Veteran]

How far down the cable did you untwist it? 1cm or so should be fine, but like 5-10cm? then you're pushing it.

[Technique]

I've got cable after cable sitting around the room now so i've measured a few that i've tested on.

 

It can be untwisted for about 3cm at the shortest. Can be up to 5cm. One was about 8-10cm but like i just said - that was only one.

 

But on average 3-5cm i would say.

 

I just find it difficult getting the cables in there paired up on top of each other taking up all that space & then trying to punch it down. That's why i untwisted them.

 

But surely that can't be the cause though? Because the cable is still being terminated in the correct point??

[BinaryData]

3 minutes ago, Technique said:

I've got cable after cable sitting around the room now so i've measured a few that i've tested on.

 

It can be untwisted for about 3cm at the shortest. Can be up to 5cm. One was about 8-10cm but like i just said - that was only one.

 

But on average 3-5cm i would say.

 

I just find it difficult getting the cables in there paired up on top of each other taking up all that space & then trying to punch it down. That's why i untwisted them.

 

But surely that can't be the cause though? Because the cable is still being terminated in the correct point??

When I clip my ends, I actually straighten them with a pen. Helps out majorly, and I've never had a problem with it. Untwisting won't do anything, unless you totally screw with it.

 

Though, I've never had your problem.  Did you order new plates yet?

[Technique]

15 minutes ago, BinaryData said:

Did you order new plates yet?

 

I know i know - it's been said to buy a new faceplate & i have put some on order, i just need to wait on delivery - so i AM listening to you. I thought in the meantime i'd ask about this that i've just read.

 

 

 

Yes, i have

[BinaryData]

2 minutes ago, Technique said:

 

 

Yes, i have

It's 3AM here, and our coffee machine broke D:

[+BudMan MVC]

wouldn't matter if you untwisted the whole run... You do understand your tester is just doing a simple continuity test, its not a spec tester making sure your crosstalk is within spec, etc..

 

Your problem is that wire 5 is broken somewhere in the middle or the way your punching it 5 is always bad??  Seems unlikely...  I would guess its broken line..

[Technique]

If it is the broken line then #5 must be either non existent (although don't forget the first test - #6 was the only one not to work), or it must be broken every step of the way, even on the coil that has been unused & still on the reel (because don't forget i also tested that too).

 

I guess we'll find out next week when the faceplates land if it's the faceplate at fault. I have a funny feeling not.

 

I will buy some cat5e cable also. Sure it's not as good as cat6 but i haven't failed with cat5e before & i haven't succeeded with cat6 yet. ATEOTD i'm only connecting a smart TV. I would imagine/hope cat5e would be enough.

 

 

 

I guess one way to test this would be to faceplate each end up & connect it to the internet & plug my laptop in to see if i can connect to the internet.

[+BudMan MVC]

Not really a test if you could connect or not... Pin 5 is not required for 10/100 its only required for a gig connection. 

 

I did not catch that you were testing new wire off the spool... Clearly you have something messed up either in your tester or how your punching the wires down.. Are you color blind?  And crossing wires?  Seems odd that it would always be pin 5.. even on new wire.

[Technique]

I'd take a photo but i'm sure you can trust me that when i say ....

 

where the colour indicated blue & white ... i get the blue & white wire, i lay it over & then i punch down ... until it clicks & cuts off the wire.

I repeat this process for all other colours & then test.

 

Some times i get a fake click on the punch down but i just re-align until it actually punches it right down & cuts the wire.

 

The blue/white being in the top right corner (or bottom left, whichever way you look at it).

 

I think that's what's indicated by #5 off the top of my head (without going downstairs & re-checking).

 

Anyway, i'll be back in a few days when the new faceplates land & i'll update you, be it positive or negative.

[Technique]

I was under the floor today (i hate that! all that wet, sludge, rocks, bricks, stone, cutting my knees to shreds) and i really hope it's the faceplates at fault because there's no way i'm feeding any more slack through. There's also no way i'm pulling the cable through one end as it's totally jammed.

 

I wonder if they've nailed some cable clips in too much & it's crushed the wiring.

 

An electrician is out tomorrow. I'm at work but my wife is at home. I've asked her to ask him if he could at the very least test the wires to see if they're working, especially the blue/white.

[Technique]

Good news bad news.

 

Good news: New faceplates arrived

I fitted them on a test cable

They worked according to my 9v tester

So i fitted them to the cable in place...

They worked

 

Bad news: the cable at one end can not be fed down below the flooring as it has been put behind the skirting boards & foamed in to place, so i will need to cut it as short as possible & then terminate it.

In short i will get 1 shot & 1 shot only to get it right for good.

Unless i have the back box higher on the wall & use trunking to hide the cable which would then allow for slack (& errors).

 

I never did understand why i could terminate fine in the past but not now. I guess the faceplates were the issue.