PSU Failure


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So even with an ssd, 2 hard drives, a gtx 950, wireless card 350w is all that is needed?  That is somewhat in line with what the coolermaster psu calculator told me but I thought it was BS because cooler master makes low quality PSUs.  My old computer before this one had a 400W psu a core2duo and an 8600GTS and as soon as I added a second HDD the thing barely booted at all until I got this PSU.  That's why I feel like this computer would use more than 350w, heck probably more than 400W.  Someone else told me to buy 50-100W more than you need so the PSU isn't working at it's max tolarable load for its whole life generating more heat and not lasting as long

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22 minutes ago, mikee286 said:

So even with an ssd, 2 hard drives, a gtx 950, wireless card 350w is all that is needed?  That is somewhat in line with what the coolermaster psu calculator told me but I thought it was BS because cooler master makes low quality PSUs.  My old computer before this one had a 400W psu a core2duo and an 8600GTS and as soon as I added a second HDD the thing barely booted at all until I got this PSU.  That's why I feel like this computer would use more than 350w, heck probably more than 400W.  Someone else told me to buy 50-100W more than you need so the PSU isn't working at it's max tolarable load for its whole life generating more heat and not lasting as long

No 350W is not enough as You have to take in the PSU efficiency. Let's say it is 80% efficient. Take 450W PSU and remove 20% of power and You get 360W of actual power that 450W PSU can deliver. Just in case take the 500W PSU to sleep tight. 

 

Here are few micro managed PSU calcs that are very accurate:

 

http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

 

http://powersupplycalculator.net/

Edited by Yogurth
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6 hours ago, mikee286 said:

Does this one look good?  A guy on facebook recommended I get this seasonic which is on sale

 

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151132

 

I don't know of the brand seasonic or if they are good quality in the PSU department but I know I got roasted for buying this Ultra PSU back in 2011 saying they aren't good quality and that it would probably blow up within a year or 2

That PSU compared to the junk one that went bad - is the equivalent of going from a Honda to a Rolls Royce - yes - get it.

Seasonic are among the best there is - and the one you had - well you are lucky it didnt fry everything years ago.

I am sure you have now learned how important it is to have a good PSU - never go cheap on a PSU - and there is no reason to buy Thermaltake when there are so many good brands - it makes no sense.


Here is why you never buy cheap PSUs :

When the cheap generic ones are being tested on the production line - they will put them in a very cold lab, and stress test them.  Then if the thing spikes for a second @ 600W, they will slap a 600W sticker on it.
The good brands, will test under heated real world situations, then if it hangs around 600W, they will actually downscale the rating for sake of reliability - the very good brands are known for downplaying their ratings.

For instance, my 1KW Seasonic Platinum is closer to 1100W (actually it might be 1050W) - Corsair, the old awesome PC Power & Cooling Turbo Cool PSU, Silverstone, Seasonic are all legendary for their reliability.   Stick with those brands and it is one less thing to worry about on your next build.

So, when you get a generic PSU (cheap one) - and you play it close to the wattage claimed by a calculator - you are playing Russian Roulette with 3 rounds in the cylinder 

Edited by T3X4S
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14 minutes ago, sc302 said:

Fwiw seasonic makes psus for other brands (like corsair)

It depends. For OP and anyone interested I recommend this somewhat dated article for a better understanding of who makes what regarding PSUs and this for up to date information.

 

When I bought my first proper PSU, I did research for almost 2 weeks straight, and afterwards, I spent 7 times more than I did on the usual crap. It was worth it.

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Below is an example of a 1st class PSU.  @ 750W Titanium - you can rest assured this will not be the cause of your computer problems.

Capture.JPG

I realize its more than what you want to spend - but - when it comes to computer parts - you get what you pay for.

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Below is an example of a 1st class PSU.  @ 750W Titanium - you can rest assured this will not be the cause of your computer problems.

Capture.thumb.JPG.cc224eb4a0c9d18d1449c6ebbf939e67.JPG

I realize its more than what you want to spend - but - when it comes to computer parts - you get what you pay for.

The efficiency out of titanium isn't worth the price imo. Gold is pretty good and will keep your power draw (from your wall outlet) at a good level...less than bronze, silver, or no rating.
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16 hours ago, Yogurth said:

No 350W is not enough as You have to take in the PSU efficiency. Let's say it is 80% efficient. Take 450W PSU and remove 20% of power and You get 360W of actual power that 450W PSU can deliver. Just in case take the 500W PSU to sleep tight. 

 

Here are few micro managed PSU calcs that are very accurate:

 

http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

 

http://powersupplycalculator.net/

Not entirely true.  Efficiency is how "efficient" the PSU is at delivering power to the components.

 

For example (and simplicities sake) ...

--take a 250 watt 80 PLUS.  80 PLUS is 80% efficient at 100% load.  So, at "max load" to deliver that 250 watts ... the PSU is drawing 312.5 watts from the wall.

--compare to a 250 watt 80 PLUS Platinum.  80 PLUS Platinum is 89% efficient at 100% load.  So, at "max load" to deliver that 250 watts ... the PSU is drawing 281 watts from the wall.

 

The efficiency is just how much watts you are losing in the form of heat or other inefficiencies (at 20, 50 and 100% loads..with various efficiencies assigned to each of those loads).  

 

In other words (in your example) ... a 450W PSU will deliver (if needed) 450 watts ... you'll just be pulling 562 watts from the wall at max rating.  You do not cut 450 watts by 20%.

 

Hopefully that makes sense. :) 

 

With regards to power supplies ... I've never had issues with Corsairs or SeaSonics.  Just steer clear of the cheapo manufactures and you'll be ok.

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I realize cost is relative.  But, for me, I want to make sure if I am going to be spending money, I want to make sure I get the best I can - 1 less thing to worry about.

Keep in mind we are not talking about houses, boats, watches from IWC, or 1962 Rothschild Lafite - these are small dollar items, and the difference between good and bad can be the amount of a tank of gas...
 

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Cost plays a big factor and not everyone sees the same way you do. 40 bux is the difference between not having any psu to having a psu. 40 bux is the difference between having a psu and having a great psu. 40 bux is the difference between having a great psu to having a superb psu. 40 bux is the difference between having a superb psu to what you have posted. It is relative and when you have a budget vs get the best out there, the budget tends to win. Not everyone wants to afford the best and not everyone can afford the best. Even when not paying for it, I would never recommend what you have posted. It is overkill unless you have money to burn, there is no real benefit other than to spend cash on it. 

 

Going from gold to platinum there is barely any worth while benefit, going from platinum to titanium is probably less (from a quality manufacturer). 

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On 2/26/2017 at 7:19 AM, sc302 said:


The efficiency out of titanium isn't worth the price imo. Gold is pretty good and will keep your power draw (from your wall outlet) at a good level...less than bronze, silver, or no rating.

Keep in mind. that SeaSonic T3X4S pictured boasts a whopping 10 year warranty.  That to me is saying SeaSonic stands by that product... for TEN YEARS.  No other PSU I've seen has a warranty that comes close to matching.

I know that's not the end-all-be-all for buying something, but in this case, it is something to think about.

 

 

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Keep in mind. that SeaSonic T3X4S pictured boasts a whopping 10 year warranty.  That to me is saying SeaSonic stands by that product... for TEN YEARS.  No other PSU I've seen has a warranty that comes close to matching. I know that's not the end-all-be-all for buying something, but in this case, it is something to think about.  

 

You don't need that to have a 10 year. This is cheaper and comes with it and you can probably find it cheaper. They aren't the only player to offer 10 year, you don't have to spend that much to have 10 year either.

(This is the same one I posted earlier). https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015YEI9NQ/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile#featureBulletsAndDetailBullets_secondary_view_div_1488238344903

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On 2/25/2017 at 6:29 PM, Yogurth said:

It is an overkill for his setup. His system uses no more than 350W. There is no reason to pay premium price for 750W if You need almost half of that juice.

his video card alone is rated at 275 watts,  Plus, a 350 watt PS isn't going to provide proper 12V rail voltage for a R9 390 GPU in most if any cases.

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If cable routing is an issue now (or may be an issue later), strongly consider a modular PSU - I have a Corsair CX600M that I swear by - not at.  Rather amusingly, I don't use all the cables it came with (which modular DOES let you get away with); hence lack of internal wiring mess.

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My current PSU is modular however as it stands now my current case has no cable management features so its all just wire spaghetti all over the inside of my case.   I think I will aim for a 600W give or take from seasonic.  Are you saying that corsair Rmx Psu is actually made by seasonic?

 

It's a good thing I didn't just use the PSU that came with this case back in 2012.  I don't know what sort of quality standards there are in a "500 watt" PSU that comes with a 35$ case XD That PSU is in my old core 2 duo rig serving as my dads backup if his main computer conks out

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5 minutes ago, PGHammer said:

If cable routing is an issue now (or may be an issue later), strongly consider a modular PSU - I have a Corsair CX600M that I swear by - not at.  Rather amusingly, I don't use all the cables it came with (which modular DOES let you get away with); hence lack of internal wiring mess.

Truth. I changed to modular in ~2015, my case thanks me. It had so much cords behind the mobo plate that I could barely get the side panel on...

1 minute ago, mikee286 said:

My current PSU is modular however as it stands now my current case has no cable management features so its all just wire spaghetti all over the inside of my case.

btw, even without cable management help, there's nothing that twist ties can't do.

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My current PSU is modular however as it stands now my current case has no cable management features so its all just wire spaghetti all over the inside of my case.   I think I will aim for a 600W give or take from seasonic.  Are you saying that corsair Rmx Psu is actually made by seasonic?

 

It's a good thing I didn't just use the PSU that came with this case back in 2012.  I don't know what sort of quality standards there are in a "500 watt" PSU that comes with a 35$ case XD That PSU is in my old core 2 duo rig serving as my dads backup if his main computer conks out

Yes the corsair is probably rebranded seasonic

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50 minutes ago, xendrome said:

his video card alone is rated at 275 watts,  Plus, a 350 watt PS isn't going to provide proper 12V rail voltage for a R9 390 GPU in most if any cases.

You are confusing his video card with some other. Here, specs and recommended PSU straight from Nvidia. His card is rated at 90 W.

 

GTX 950 Graphics Card Dimensions:

4.376 inches Height

7.938 inches Length

Dual-width Width

Thermal and Power Specs:

95 C Maximum GPU Tempurature (in C)

90 W Graphics Card Power (W)

350 W Recommended System Power (W)**

1x 6-pins Supplementary Power Connectors

 

http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-950/specifications

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9 hours ago, sc302 said:

Nm

I still would say future proof yourself and go 600 to 750. You could go through several systems on that supply.

IMHO, system power envelope went down, not up in the last several years and it will probably continue to get lower in the upcoming years. Unless he is planning on running SLI\Crossfire with multiple cards from higher end of spectrum what would be the point of getting PSUs that powerful?

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It isn't that powerful, it is mid spectrum. I am not suggesting 1000, 1200, or 1500 watt. You make it seem that I am suggesting something that high. Do what you will, let price be your guide and search around...you may be willing to spend a few dollars more to get to the next wattage or rating class

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I'm probably going to get a seasonic 650W unless the 750 is only a few dollars more. My current PSU is a 650 80 plus bronze.  So a seasonic 650W 80 plus gold should be fine I would think

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